Some of the Coolest (Not Coldest) Ice I Have Ever Climbed

On my last day in Juneau, Ed Shanley drove me out to Mendenhall Lake to show me some ice caves. Two years prior we had hiked around the toe of Mendenhall Glacier and into some ice caves, but I had neglected to bring my ice climbing gear that day.

The lake was frozen and so we were able to walk right to the toe of the glacier and avoid the long walk around on the trail. A series of icebergs were frozen in place on the lake. We threw our packs down, grabbed some cameras, and put on our climbing gear. The light reflecting through the ice and off of it’s polished surface was just amazing.

After taking lots of pictures, I felt satisfied to start climbing. I wasn’t sure what the ice would be like to climb. I knew it would be far more brittle and hard than waterfall ice, but little else. I tempted the idea of trying an easier route up one of the icebergs to get the feel of it, but instead gravitated towards a beautiful sweeping wall of blue ice. You just can resist blue so deep, like in someones eyes.

The first few moves went well enough, but things got tough quick. I was back on the ground resting after about ten minutes and about twenty feet of progress. I tried again, thinking maybe having the first two ice screws in place would be enough to boost me through the rest of the climb. It was enough to boost me about twelve feet further and I had to rest on the rope again. Placing the ice screws was extremely difficult as the ice was farther away from my hips, where you would normally place a screw, given the overhanging nature. I twist my hips to lever the screw into the ice and instead all of my weight was on my arms. It became a desperate struggle just to finish the climb. I was so pumped that each try after resting I just had less and less to give. Just holding onto my ice tools felt impossible near the top.

My next go at the climb found me successful, but not by much of margin. I was psyched! This was the most sustained, difficult and steep ice I have climbed. Most ice climbs I have encountered top out on a scale at WI6, and I’ve only read about climbs of higher difficulty. I don’t know what this route would be graded, but it made the WI6 routes I’ve done seem easy in comparison. I wanted more, but we barely made it to the airport for me to catch my flight. I waited in the check-in lane, still wet from climbing, completely exhausted, and smiling ear to ear. I can’t wait to go back!