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Petzl Ergo Ice Tool Review

Monday, February 28th, 2011

petzl ergoOK, first of all, I want to address the fact that is doesn’t have anything to do with web development. I hope that’s OK for some of you. We over here at Visual Adventures are not one trick ponies. We choose to excel at more than one thing. As mentioned in other blog posts, web designers like us are busy trying to save the world, and thus special skills are required.

On Christmas eve the Ergo’s arrived at my doorstep in the snowy hamlet of Ouray, Colorado. It was like a gift from Santa Claus. The Petzl Ergo has three grip positions where other ice tools have only two. I was a little skeptical of the third position as it certainly changes the angle of pull when you get up on it. Since my hands are quite big, the adjustable third pinky rest sits high. As a result, there is not a lot of room for a gloved finger to not get squished.

I was instantly impressed by their aggressiveness on the rock. I felt like they’ll stick to almost any nubbin of rock. A couple days later found me near the top of my M12 project. My hands where a bit crossed up and I found myself on the third grip of the tool. The rock sailed through my vision and I came to rest on the rope. Dang! Redpoint averted! As suspected, you have to be careful when using the third grip. The next attempt I avoided using the third grip except in an inverted stein pull, and found myself clipping the chains on my new route.

A few days later, I found myself on Goldline, a well know M10 in Ouray. I breezed through the big rock roof and gained the hanging icicle at the top. It hadn’t been climbed yet this year so I was forced to swing my tools delicately into the thin pillar. It was quite awkward and I felt I had to work hard to get purchase. This was of course the first time using the Ergo’s on ice, so it was a bit rough of a first date.

The next date with the Ergo’s was in the Ouray Ice Park on opening day. I scooted over to a WI5 pillar named Popsicle in the lower bridge area. It had not been climbed yet and was in typical ice park shape, chandaliered. I found the

Lowe Alpine’s new Nanon Pack

Friday, May 7th, 2010

First you may be asking why is there a pack review on technology site?  Well, that’s an easy answer my friend.  Web Designers are Super Heroes.  Not only do they straddle the bridge between technology and creativity, in their spare time, they go out and do things like fight crime, climb mountains, hang from cliffs or frozen waterfalls, and do what they can to preserve humanity.

I’m going to skip over the techy details of the pack.  That’s already been done.  Here’s the link for you to read about all of the Nanon’s features, and a much more involved review than mine.

The Nanon is a 50-60L dyneema pack designed for lightweight backpacking. This is Lowe Alpine’s answer to a lightweight pack that maintains Lowe’s standard of durability.  There are lighter packs out there, but this one is made of tough dyneema and is fully featured.  I was surprised how many pockets and features it had.  Lowe does make a less featured version called the Zepton.  It seems my guide friends often forgo the features, but I personally like to have different pockets for a few things I want easy to access.  Those things for me might be a snack, headlamp, car keys, etc..

I first thought the Nanon would be more of a overnight only pack meant to shave off a little weight, but after a quick inspection I was wrong.  The only real areas of weakness appear to be the fast-tex buckles and the water bottle pockets on the sides.  Although those pockets are nice, I fear how they will hold up against a patch of scrub oak.  The dyneema fabric has a real solid feel to it.  Lowe has incorporated lots of fit options, so most anyone should be able to get a good fit out of the pack if they take the time to adjust it. The weight savings were obvious upon taking it out of the box.  Dyneema is of course lighter than a nylon pack, but the webbing used is also about half the size of what you normally see on a pack.  The fast-tex buckles are proportionally half the size as well.  The mini fast-tex buckles are pretty cute.

It was a few weeks before the snow let up here in Ouray for me to get out and take the pack for a test run.  On a weekend trip to Castle Valley, near Moab, Utah, I loaded the pack up with rock climbing equipment and a rope, and marched up the 1,500 ft. steep slope to a formation called the Rectory. We climbed a route called Ministry (although not with the pack) and returned to the ground with snow falling from the sky.

I haphazardly loaded up my pack with a bunch of gear and set off down the hill.  My partners were complaining about light packs.  I guess I must have grabbed their gear as well.  The Nanon carried great and the extra weight didn’t bother me at all.

Sometimes you just want a pack that you can throw on your back and go.  The Nanon served this purpose exceptionally even at the upper end of the weight it was designed to carry.

The Nanon does pretty much everything you need it to do in a featured and durable package.  I will digress for a moment and mention a few things I would like to see different.  I don’t like fasttex buckles.  They are just too easy to break and then they leave you high and dry.  A careless misstep around camp, and your hike out is going to be miserable.   Make that more miserable than it was going to be anyway.  They can’t be repaired in the field either. I like the Lowe Alpine load lockers much better and was disappointed not to see these on the Nanon.  I may retro fit my waist buckle with one of these load lockers.  The webbing fits just perfect and it will be an easy upgrade.

I also wish Lowe Alpine would put ice axe holders on all of their packs that resembled the system Black Diamond and Cilo Gear uses.  The big pocket on the Nanon has just enough room for ice axes and crampons, so this is a moot point in this case.  The webbing straps just don’t accommodate the leashless ice tools that are being used today.

I would recommend the Nanon to carry around your Mac Book Pro or in saving humanity.  I’m psyched and I’m looking forward to my next adventure with the Nanon.

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