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Big Fun in Lower Waterholes Canyon

Monday, August 22nd, 2011

Canyons are like hidden worlds beneath the surface of the earth.  We recently had the opportunity to do Lower Waterholes Canyon located outside of Page, Arizona.  This was one of our favorite canyons to date.  The terrain is interesting and ever changing, and there is even big exposure through a 400 foot section of rappels. The day is capped off by a boat ride down the Colorado River amidst canyon walls. Such great variety is such an amazing setting makes this and unforgettable experience.

The day goes something like this:

  1. Shuttle Car drop-off at Lee’s Ferry
  2. Drive about 1/2 hour to the beginning of the canyon
  3. The canyon starts right under the highway so there is no approach
  4. The first obstacle is an old car you must down-climb
  5. Hiking, short rappels, down-climbing and potentially water lead you down the canyon to the big drop
  6. Rappel down a vertical 400 foot wall
  7. One more rappel and some hiking lead you to the Colorado River
  8. Blow up your raft and drink a beer if you remembered to pack one
  9. A gentle ride down the river as the sun sets on the orange walls around you
  10. Exit the river at Lee’s Ferry

 A few things you might want to consider for the trip:

  • A old backpack with drybag inside
  • An inflatable raft or kayak and collapsable paddle that you can get into your pack
  • Rappelling Gear – harness, belay device, daisy chain.
  • Waterproof Camera
  • Sunscreen
  • sterling ats belay device

    ATS belay device

    The Sterling Rope ATS was super helpful to add friction on the long rappel.

  • hollowblock

    Hollowblock

    The Hollowblock kept my hands from being burnt on the long rappel. In 100 degree heat, belay devices get hot fast. Some of the other folks got blisters and melted skin on their hands from the rappel.

  • canyon tech rope

    Canyon Tech Rope

    Canyon Tech Rope – although you ran rappel on almost any rope thats meant for climbing purposes, why not use one that’s meant for the job.

  • chain reactor

    Chain Reactor

    - much safer than daisy chains, this will be needed for the long rappel.

  • Radar Visor

    Radar Visor

    Radar Visor – this great little rig folds up small and keeps the sun off your face.

 

Note: I am a sponsored athlete for some of the companies that make the gear for the gear suggestions.

Special Thanks to Mark Geikenjoyner for putting together the video.

Additional Resources and Trip Planning information:

It’s Greek To Me!

Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011

kalymnos greeceTravel tips for Kalymnos

This last month, I was lucky enough to spend three weeks in Kalymnos, Greece. Kalymnos is an easy place to be with fantastic climbing, good food and wonderful people. There is almost no petty crime or theft, which is a nice change from some of the other climbing areas I’ve visited.  It is also still fairly affordable, if you cook and choose basic accommodations.   Each time I travel I get more savvy,  so I thought I would share what I have learned.

  • Pack sturdy approach shoes. Although most of the approaches are short I didn’t think they were trivial, and after a few days my legs, feet and hips were worked.  I brought light running shoes a but my Asolo approach shoes would have been a much better choice for the steep and loose terrain.  If you have knee problems,  I would bring hiking poles as well.
  • Bring a warm jacket.  I threw my Outdoor Research down sweater in at the last minute and was happy to have it.  My trip took place the last part of April through the first part of May and I wore it nearly every day, both at the crag and in the room.  The weather reminded me of the mountains as it changed frequently through out the day.
  • Use the public transportation.  We thought we would rent a scooter for a few days, but found the local bus to meet our needs for both getting to the crag and into Pothia. You can buy tickets from the local mini marts. I also hitch hiked quite a bit and felt very safe.
  • If you head to Pothia, remember they have siesta from 1:00-5:00 and many business’s  are closed.
  • Bring comfortable climbing shoes. Although you want performance from your climbing,  the routes are long and often times you are climbing in the sun.  I would opt for a comfortable pair of shoes over a super tight pair.  I absolutely loved my Evolv Talons.  The worked great over there and were super comfy.
  • Bring tape and chalk.  A role of tape was about $9 US dollars.  I would much rather spend that on a good meal and tape and chalk are light!
  • Bring 70 meter rope bi-color rope.   I brought the Sterling Nano bi color and loved it.  Because many of the routes wander, you can get off a 40 meter route with a 70 meter rope, but it’s nice to have the middle marked as many of the routes are 30 plus meters.
  • If your a coffee lover, bring your own! I was happy to have my stove top espresso maker and some good coffee, as it’s hard to find both over here.
  • Book a room for a few days before hand, then once you get there shop around to find a room that has the things you need such as internet, location close to the cliff, kitchenette. Most of the hotels/studios get a large percentage of their bookings on a walk- in basis.  Even on Easter, one of the busiest weeks of the year, there were a still few places with available rooms.  You are also in a better position to negotiate the price once you are there.
  • Bring a signal booster if you need internet.   Many places advertise Wi-fi, but most do not have it available in the rooms.  I stayed at Galouizes, which had Wi-fi in the rooms, but it wasn’t a great signal.  If you plan on working, this would be money well spent.

Things I loved in Greece are:food kalymnos greece
The cheese and yogurt, the greek combo plates, the oranges, the pastries and bread, the vegetable truck that came through town every few days, the people and of course….the climbing!

Jason Nelson appears on Verticulture site.

Monday, March 28th, 2011

jason nelsonCheck out the story and video (written, edit and produced) by Jason Nelson on the Verticulture site.

Below is an excerpt:

Zero to Hero -a new mixed climb- came together in a series of pieces. The first began about three years ago… Living in Ouray, with a population of 900, meant that climbing partners could be limited at times. I often filled that gap by establishing new routes. Bolting is something like climbing, but dirtier and different. I liken it to a sculptor removing the debris and unearthing a statue. With rock as loose as it is in Ouray, that means a lot of removing debris.

Zero to... HERO!

 

Zero to… HERO!

Inspired by stories of what was happening over in Europe and having climbed-out Ouray’s current “hard man’s mixed climbing” area, the Poser’s Lounge, I set my sights on finding something different. Why did I need to be limited to finding steep rock with ice on it for a mixed climb? While we all like to have ice on our mixed routes for aesthetic purposes, it really limits the options. Read More and see the video…

Additional Pics

 

Jack Jefferies

Jason Nelson mixed climbing

Lisa appears on the Outdoor Research website

Monday, March 28th, 2011

lisa nelson outdoor researchLisa is currently gracing the Outdoor Research Women’s Apparel page.  Check it out.  This is photo was taken last year during a photo shoot prior to the Red Rocks Rendesvous event that we annually teach clinics at.

The photo was take by Bryan Smith at Red Rocks, just outside of Las Vegas, NV.

And here is the un-cropped version of the pic.
Please note: These images are the copyright/property of Bryan Smith (http://reelwaterproductions.com/)

Lisa Nelson at Red Rocks - Copyright Bryan SmithLisa Nelson at Red Rocks - Copyright Bryan Smith

Red Rocks Climbing 2010

Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010

These are some shots I got while out on a photoshoot for Outdoor Research at Red Rocks, NV, outside of Las Vegas.  Lisa and I were both modeling for the shoot, but I decided to bring my camera along.  We had a group of five, plus photographer Bryan Smith, so there was some opportunity for me to get some shots.  It was two long days of shooting followed by two long days of teaching clinics.  Just thinking of all that makes me feel tired and want to order a latte while I type this up.  The best part of it all was spending time with a great group of people.  The team Outdoor Research has put together is a great one, and I really enjoy the time spent with the crew.  I look forward to seeing the shots Bryan got of us.

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