Climbing Resumé for Jason Nelson

  • Ice and Mixed Climbing

    It’s like going into a glass shop and getting to break everything!

Ice Climbing Highlights

Expedition 2011: Bart Lake, Alaska.  A remote helicopter access location south of Juneau.
Milagro de Plata (300M,WI6) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson, likely the most continuously steep ice in North America.
Large Marge (250M, WI4) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson
The Tall Thin One (250M, WI5) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson

Expedition 2012: Tracy Arm Fjord, Alaska. 7 days on a boat
Tide Line (450M, WI6) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson and Tommy Lanagan
Time Line (100M, WI3+) – First Ascent with Tommy Lanagan

Expedition 2016: Northern Norway.
Established 10 first ascents over 2.5 weeks with Stephen Berwanger in the Finmark region of Norway.  The highlight was Miller’s Moondance (320M, WI5 M7R).  Other routes involved difficulties up to WI6 and traditional M8+ routes.

Mixed Climbing Highlights

I have established all of (minus one) and have climbed all of the routes in Ouray’s Hall of Justice area.  These are difficult and steep modern mixed and drytooling routes ranging from M11- M13.

Somewhere Over the Rainbow (M11 WI5+, 150M), Camp Bird Mine, Colorado (2014).  A five pitch route I established with Beth Goralski outside of Ouray.  This route was protected with both traditional gear and some bolts where it crossed previously climbed terrain.

Almost Somewhere (M8, WI5, 70M). Camp Bird Mine, Colorado (2015). A two pitch+ first ascent I climbed with Beth Goralski ground up on-sight and protected with traditional gear, and in a blizzard!

Other ascents include Red Bull and Vodka (M11) (2010 or 2011) and King Cobra (M11) in Vail, Northwest Passage (M11) in Hyalite Canyon, and The Nihilist (M11) on my second try in the Ghetto, CO (2015).

During the winter 2015/2016 I single-handedly established a new difficult mixed/dry tooling crag in Ouray called “The Remedy“.  It currently supports 3 confirmed M11 routes and other more difficult projects.

Paying it Forward

  • Clinic Instructor at Ouray Ice Festival – 2006, 2007, 2008 for Outdoor Research, Sterling Rope, and
  • Clinic Instructor at Bozeman Ice Festival – 2011, 2012 for Outdoor Research
  • Rock Climbing

    Trad, sport, face, crack, I love it all. I just find myself a little too big for the boulders most of the time.

Traditional Climbing

  • Solo of the first flatiron (car to car from Chataqua park) in under 1 hr.
  • Half Dome in a day via the Regular Route (lead all pitches)
  •  First ascents of multi and single pitch routes up to 5.13
  • The Nose of El Cap in 12.5 hrs. (fall ‘05)
  • Onsight the Original Route on La Esfinge (V 11c, 17,470 ft, Peru) in a day
  • FFA of Black Sheep (13b) with Josh Warton, The Black Canyon, CO. (Josh really deserves all the credit for this one.)
  • FA/FFA of Pent Up, a 7 pitch 12c in Colorado’s Black Canyon.
  • Expedition 2009: Mendenhall Towers, Juneau, AK. Established 3 new routes (up to IV/V, 12a) and one repeat.
  • Damnifidont (400’, 12a, A2) Sedona, AZ. First Ascent 2011, Desert Spire Route,
  • Established BRIS, (12 pitches, 5.12c) in Sedona, AZ. 2012
  • Established Sucker Punch (5 pitches, 5.12) in Indian Creek, UT (2013) and Out from the Shadows (5 pitches, 5.11) in 2015.

Sport Climbing

  • The hardest sport climbs I have done have been maybe half a dozen or so in the mid 5.13 range, with my first being Seafood Monos Fritas (5.13b) in Thailand in 2002.
  • I have bolted many sport climbs, some in the following areas: SW Utah, Arizona, SW Colorado, and Mexico.
  • Extensive route and crag development in Ouray, Colorado area.  I recently worked with the Ouray Beautification Committee to develop an extension of the Rotary Park crag to include additional beginner routes.  They instantly become wildly popular and have been enjoyed by both visiting and local climbers.

Paying it Forward

  • Athlete/Guide for Montrail’s Splitter Camps at Indian Creek, 2006, 2007
  • Clinic Instructor at Bozeman Ice Festival – 2011, 2012 for Outdoor Research
  • Taught Clinics at the Red Rock Rendezvous 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 as an athlete for Outdoor Research
  • Taught Clinics at the Goddess on the Rocks (New River Gorge, WV, North Conway, NH, and Joshua Tree, CA) as an athlete for Sterling Rope 2007 – 2008
  • Coach for the middle and high school climbing teams in Ouray and Ridgway, Colorado 2009 and 2010.
  • Author of Climbs of the Million Dollar Highway.  A 300+ page full color guidebook serving the Highway 550 area.  Many of the proceeds go back into route development and hardware replacement.