Ice Climbing Highlights
Expedition 2011: Bart Lake, Alaska. A remote helicopter access location south of Juneau.
Milagro de Plata (300M,WI6) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson, likely the most continuously steep ice in North America.
Large Marge (250M, WI4) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson
The Tall Thin One (250M, WI5) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson
Expedition 2012: Tracy Arm Fjord, Alaska. 7 days on a boat
Tide Line (450M, WI6) – First Ascent with Ryan Johnson and Tommy Lanagan
Time Line (100M, WI3+) – First Ascent with Tommy Lanagan
Expedition 2016: Northern Norway.
Established 10 first ascents over 2.5 weeks with Stephen Berwanger in the Finmark region of Norway. The highlight was Miller’s Moondance (320M, WI5 M7R). Other routes involved difficulties up to WI6 and traditional M8+ routes.
Cimarrons, Colorado
Hidden in the depths of the Cimarron Mountains east of Ridgway and many amazing ice routes. For the past number of years Michael Davis, Grant Kleeves, Johnny Zaug, and I have been exploring and climbing a variety of routes. Later we found some had been climbed, but some were likely first ascents. Much of the history has been either kept silent or lost.
Mixed Climbing Highlights
I have established all of (minus one) and have climbed all of the routes in Ouray’s Hall of Justice area. These are difficult and steep modern mixed and drytooling routes ranging from M11- M14. The most recent addition called “Super Wobbler (M13, 42M)” was completed in 2018.
Somewhere Over the Rainbow (M11 WI5+, 150M), Camp Bird Mine, Colorado (2014). A five pitch route I established with Beth Goralski outside of Ouray. This route was protected with both traditional gear and some bolts where it crossed previously climbed terrain.
Almost Somewhere (M8, WI5, 70M). Camp Bird Mine, Colorado (2015). A two pitch+ first ascent I climbed with Beth Goralski ground up on-sight and protected with traditional gear, and in a blizzard!
Other ascents include Red Bull and Vodka (M11) (2010 or 2011) and King Cobra (M11) in Vail, Northwest Passage (M11) in Hyalite Canyon, and The Nihilist (M11) on my second try in the Ghetto, CO (2015).
I single-handedly established a new difficult mixed/dry tooling crag in Ouray called “The Remedy“. It currently supports 18 routes from M4-M11 and other more difficult projects.
Deep Throat: Colorado
I feel honored to enjoy a repeat of the route Deep Throat first climbed by Will Gadd and Jeff Lowe. Words and grades don’t do this climb justice. It’s WILDLY steep and exposed!
Palm and Prey 2021 with Charlie Faust
Charlie and I did a ground-up first ascent of a new route on Ouray’s Darkside. It was 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV, and rated 5.10a, M6. You can read about Palm and Prey here.
Nelson/Faust Route (M6, 1,000′) on Round Mountain in Silverton, Colorado. Charlie and I climbed a new route on this face in the early winter of 2023/2024.
Paying it Forward
- Clinic Instructor at Ouray Ice Festival – 2006, 2007, 2008, 2023, 2024 for Outdoor Research, Sterling Rope, and
Trango - I have participated in helping the Ouray Ice Park and Ouray Ice Festival in many regards including website development, competition route setter, map maker, photography, competitor, competition judge, event planning, and various volunteer efforts.
- Clinic Instructor at Bozeman Ice Festival – 2011, 2012 for Outdoor Research
- Lead Rigger and Safety Tech for Valdez Ice Festival, Alaska. 2019, 2020
- I have authored two ice climbing guidebooks, Suffer Candy Vol. 1 and Suffer Candy Vol. 2. Both books cover ice climbing areas in Western Colorado.